I realized the value of the Sunday family gathering around a hearty meal only after I moved to San Francisco. You see, I grew up in a joint Indian family, with three generations living under one roof, which also meant that my father’s siblings and all my cousins would also visit us quite frequently. And there was always one constant – irrespective of the presence or absence of any particular family member – FOOD. There’s many variations of Biryani, and every culture makes it differently. The crux of it is, a layered dish of rice and well marinated meat (traditionally), topped with caramelized fried onions, fragrant saffron and fresh coriander. It’s a labour of love, really.

Looking Back

I think back to my first memories of the Sunday Biryani and there’s multiple things that cross my mind. It’s hard to pick my favorite pieces of these memories, but here goes:

Maybe I valued it so much because it was a celebration with no real reason. The entire extended family coming together and digging into this one large dish. Just one thing, common for everyone, with a side of raita (yogurt) to cool it down. Or maybe it was all the love and prep that my nanny put into it, right from marinating the chicken overnight on Saturday, or cooking the long-grained basmati rice in ghee (clarified butter).

As a designer who works with food and the senses, I look back now and a few things come to mind:  Maybe it was the rich aroma that wafted through the house, from the stove and made my young mouth water. Or maybe it was the sound of the metal spoon scraping off the crunchy bits from the bottom, the ‘khurr’, as my grandma calls it – my favorite bits.

Looking Ahead

Nowadays I substitute the meat to make a vegetarian version of sunday biryani for my friends with paneer (cottage cheese). I’m heading to the kitchen to soak chickpeas to try out a vegan version instead at this very moment.  I’m thinking back, fondly at the family gathering. It takes me back home, almost immediately, wherever I am.

Written and edited by Jashan Sippy.

‘Food, the Feeling of Home’: A series of stories exploring nostalgia, the power of food, our memories and stories of ‘home’. Want to share your story? Send it to us at info@sugarandspace.in