I’ve known Jovita for as long as I can remember. She held me as a new-born, and while our relationship has evolved over 26 long years, the bond is one that feels timeless. Every year, my Nanny, Lily, brings back Christmas treats from her family celebrations. This year, I got to bite into the flakey, nutty and sweet Navidad Nevryos, and boy, they were gooood.

Over the years, I’ve noticed that our mom consciously chooses to make Christmas sweets that are easier to execute. I wonder if ageing does that… This meant that we didn’t make my childhood favourite, Nevryos (also known as karanjis or gujiyas) for close to a decade now. I promised to help this year and convinced her it’ll be worthwhile. Passing on the tradition to the grandchild, Jordan, is the card to play; and yes, it worked beautifully once again. Getting the rest of the family on board is the next step. We definitely needed all the help to meticulously make these beautiful crescent-shaped fried dumplings; filled with the goodness of coconuts, sesame and toasted nuts!

Looking Back

My memory of making Nevryos is a major neighbourhood convention at my home. Everyone would come over to help with the tedious process; which includes kneading the dough, rolling it out; and  filling it carefully so that they are filled to the brim when you bite into them. Finding a half filled nervy is always a pet peeve.  Since the convention couldn’t happen this time, we divided the work among three volunteers; while mom sat there claiming to have made 1200 of these at one Christmas. No wonder, we needed the neighbours and no wonder she didn’t have the inclination to make these.  We decided to cut our losses and make just 100 nevryos this year.

They started making the filling by grating the dried coconut kernel and roasted each ingredient that goes into the filling separately. We knead the dough, allow it to rest and wipe down the work surfaces. Each volunteer takes to their individual stations: This year, Dad was in-charge of rolling out the dough. Although the first few rolls were nowhere near being round, I noticed them getting rounder; and him getting faster, in a matter of minutes. Jordan decided to be at the filling station. As a mother myself, I’m at a point where I have to stop giving too many instructions and being too judgmental. Once I let go, I realize how meticulous Jordan can be; and how he is genetically tuned to the whole “make sure it’s filled to the brim” craziness himself.

He reminisces that when he was younger, we didn’t allow him to do any of this. Mom’s at the frying station; warning us all the while, “You guys are going to ruin my oil if the nevryos are not sealed well.” I decided to be the all-rounder; backing up the rolling, filling and transport of material from the individual stations. The first nevry is barely fried that it goes into our mouths hot and steaming; after all it did take us 10 years to get to this point.

Looking Ahead

Using good quality ingredients and going with her instinct are mom’s secrets to making amazing Christmas sweets. She doesn’t ever have a recipe and I think that’s what being a natural in the kitchen is all about. We passed on a little bit of that genius this year. I’m glad Jordan will have memories of this flavour and I hope he holds onto it and some day passes it on too.

Written by Jovita Mascarenhas and edited by  Jashan Sippy.

‘Food, the Feeling of Home’: A series of stories exploring nostalgia, the power of food, our memories and stories of ‘home’. Want to share your story? Send it to us at info@sugarandspace.in